Are Fatty Alcohols Like Cetearyl Alcohol Comedogenic? What the Research Shows

Borderline. Fulton's 1989 rabbit-ear survey graded cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol 2, a borderline result, while branched and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as isocetyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol graded 4 [1]. Short-chain alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol graded 0, so the word 'alcohol' on a label tells you very little [1].

Key takeaways

1. Cetearyl, cetyl, stearyl and myristyl alcohol each graded 2 for comedogenicity. Fulton read 2 to 3 as borderline [1].
2. Isocetyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol graded 4, and the short-chain alcohols isopropyl alcohol and SD alcohol 40 graded 0 [1].
3. Fulton wrote that mid-chain alcohols are more comedogenic and more irritating than their fatty acid analogs, and that branching raises both [1].
4. A cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 combination graded 4, while cetearyl alcohol alone graded 2. The formula matters [1].
5. A 1985 safety report said stearyl alcohol produced no evidence of comedogenicity, while Fulton graded it 2. Sources disagree [1][3].

What are fatty alcohols?

Fatty alcohols are waxy, long-chain alcohols used as thickeners and emollients. They are not the drying kind of alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol [4].

On a label they appear as Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and similar names. The grades differ with chain length and shape, which is why a single 'alcohol' verdict does not work.

What did Fulton grade?

These are from Fulton's 0 to 5 rabbit-ear scale, where 0 to 1 is not significant, 2 to 3 is borderline and 4 to 5 is positive [1].

What patterns explain the grades?

Fulton described three patterns for the alcohols [1]:

1. Chain length. Short-chain alcohols do not cause a reaction. Mid-chain alcohols are comedogenic and more irritating than their fatty acid analogs.
2. Branching. The branched-chain isocetyl alcohol was more comedogenic and more irritating than the straight-chain alcohol.
3. Formula. Emulsifying wax NF graded 0 for comedogenicity, but Fulton noted it may be irritating depending on the concentration of longer-chain alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol.

The ceteareths are PEG ethers of cetearyl alcohol used as surfactants [5]. Fulton's table shows that pairing cetearyl alcohol with ceteareth-20 can behave differently from cetearyl alcohol alone [1].

What did other research say?

The consumer figure of 2 matches Fulton's grade, but Fulton read 2 as borderline, not low [1]. The 1985 safety report and Fulton's grade for stearyl alcohol do not agree, and the sources reviewed do not explain why.

Why can a product with cetearyl alcohol still be fine?

Three reasons. Fulton tested each ingredient at 10% in propylene glycol, so a rating does not say what your product contains [1]. A 2006 study found that finished products using comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic [8]. And position on the label matters, because ingredients near the top are present in larger amounts. See Does Ingredient Order Matter?.

What does the evidence not show?

1. Human data. The sources reviewed include no human comedogenicity trial isolating fatty alcohols.
2. Behenyl alcohol. Fulton's table does not list it. His table lists behenic acid at 0, but that is a different ingredient [1].
3. A safe amount. Fulton was not convinced that lower concentrations of comedogenic ingredients can be used safely [1].
4. Safety versus comedogenicity. Safety panels judged these alcohols safe as used [2][3]. That is a toxicity conclusion, not a pore-clogging one.

What can you do about it?

1. Read the exact name. Paste an ingredient list into the Klenzera scanner to see which alcohols appear. See How to Read an Ingredient List for Acne-Prone Skin for naming traps.
2. Look for the stronger flags. Isocetyl Alcohol and Oleyl Alcohol graded 4, while the cetyl and stearyl family graded 2 [1].
3. Test one product at a time. Use the steps in How to Know If a Product Will Clog Your Pores.

Frequently asked questions

Is cetearyl alcohol comedogenic?

It graded 2 in Fulton's rabbit-ear survey, which he read as borderline [1]. Whether it matters for you depends on the whole formula and where it sits on the label.

Is a fatty alcohol the same as a drying alcohol?

No. Short-chain alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol and SD alcohol 40 graded 0 in Fulton's table, while the waxy fatty alcohols graded 2 to 4 [1].

Is cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol safer than cetearyl alcohol?

In Fulton's table all three graded 2 [1]. Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of the other two [4].

Is behenyl alcohol lower risk?

Fulton did not list it, so the sources reviewed give no grade. His table lists behenic acid at 0, which is a different ingredient [1].

When should I see a dermatologist?

If breakouts are painful, cystic, scarring, persistent or suddenly worse, or if you suspect an allergic reaction, talk to a dermatologist or doctor.

The bottom line

Fatty alcohols are a borderline family, not a clean bill of health and not a red flag. Read the exact name, notice the stronger flags such as isocetyl and oleyl alcohol, and let your own skin decide.

This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not dermatological diagnosis, medical treatment, or clinical advice. Talk to a licensed dermatologist about medical concerns.

Related reading: Comedogenic Ingredients List | Are Comedogenic Ratings Reliable? | Is Lanolin Comedogenic? | Is Dimethicone Comedogenic?

References

1. Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.
2. Elder RL. Final report on the safety assessment of cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Int J Toxicol. 1988;7:359-413.
3. Final report on the safety assessment of stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and octyl dodecanol. Int J Toxicol. 1985.
4. SpecialChem. Cetearyl alcohol (emollient): cosmetic ingredient INCI. specialchem.com/cosmetics/inci-ingredients/cetearyl-alcohol
5. Final report on the safety assessment of ceteareth-2 through ceteareth-100. Int J Toxicol. 1999;18(Suppl 3):41-49.
6. Kligman AM, Mills OH Jr. Acne cosmetica. Arch Dermatol. 1972;106(6):843-850.
7. ScanSkin AI. Cetearyl alcohol: comedogenic rating and safety guide. scanskinai.com/ingredients/cetearyl-alcohol
8. Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54(3):507-512. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058