Are Shea Butter and Cocoa Butter Comedogenic? What the Research Shows

Cocoa butter, yes: Fulton's 1989 rabbit-ear survey graded it 4 out of 5, and it has served as a positive control in human studies [1][2]. Shea butter is less clear. Fulton's survey does not list it, and the 0 to 2 rating quoted online traces to no primary study in the pages reviewed [1].

Key takeaways

1. Cocoa butter graded 4 for comedogenicity and 0 for irritancy, and Fulton noted cocoa butter has long been linked to pomade acne [1].
2. Isopropyl myristate and cocoa butter have been used as positive controls in human studies built on rabbit-ear protocols [2].
3. Fulton's 1989 table has no entry for shea butter [1].
4. Commercial and consumer pages quote a 0 to 2 rating for shea butter, often saying it varies by source, but the ones reviewed here cite no primary study [5][6].
5. Natural does not mean low-risk. Fulton found some natural oils improved when refined, and that safflower and sunflower oils were naturally less comedogenic [1].

What are cocoa butter and shea butter?

Both are plant fats used as emollients. On a label, cocoa butter appears as Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, sometimes written Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter. Shea butter appears as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter [7].

They are often grouped together, but the research behind them is very different.

What does the research show about cocoa butter?

The rabbit-ear result and the clinical history agree. That makes cocoa butter one of the better-supported flags among natural fats.

What does the research show about shea butter?

Less than you might expect. Fulton's 1989 table lists cocoa butter and coconut butter, but no shea butter [1]. In the pages reviewed for this article, the shea butter rating of 0 to 2 appears on commercial and consumer sites, which often add that it varies by source, and none points to a primary study [5][6].

That does not mean shea butter clogs pores. It means the commonly quoted number is hard to trace.

Fulton's data on shea's main fatty acids point in different directions. Shea butter is rich in oleic and stearic acids [5]. Fulton graded stearic acid 2 to 3, depending on source, but did not grade oleic acid itself, and oleyl and oleate ingredients graded from 3 to 5 [1]. No single number settles it.

Why do ratings vary so much?

Fulton's own table shows why. Several natural ingredients, including lanolin alcohol, jojoba oil and beeswax, carry ranges such as 0 to 2 because results depend on the source of the raw material [1]. For sesame, avocado and mink oil, results improved when a more refined oil was used [1].

So 'shea butter' can mean several things: refined or unrefined, pure butter or a blend. A single number cannot cover them.

What does the evidence not show?

1. Human face data. The sources reviewed include no face study of either butter as a comedogen.
2. How finished products behave. A 2006 study found that finished products using comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic [4].
3. A safe amount. Fulton tested at 10% and was not convinced that lower concentrations are safe [1].
4. A ranking between the two. The evidence supports flagging cocoa butter. It does not support calling shea butter safe or unsafe.

What can you do about it?

1. Check your products. Paste an ingredient list into the Klenzera scanner to see whether either butter appears and where.
2. Look at hair products too. Fulton linked cocoa butter to pomade acne on the forehead and temples [1].
3. Weigh position, then test. See Does Ingredient Order Matter? and How to Know If a Product Will Clog Your Pores.

Frequently asked questions

Is cocoa butter comedogenic?

In rabbit-ear testing, yes. Fulton graded it 4 [1], and it has been used as a positive control in human studies [2].

Is shea butter non-comedogenic?

The 0 to 2 rating is widely quoted but hard to trace to a primary source. Fulton's survey does not list shea butter [1].

Is shea butter safer than cocoa butter?

The evidence reviewed supports a flag for cocoa butter, and says little either way about shea. That is not the same as shea being safe.

Does refined or unrefined matter?

Fulton saw better results from refined versions of some oils and found that results can depend on the raw material source [1]. The sources reviewed do not test this for shea butter.

When should I see a dermatologist?

If breakouts are painful, cystic, scarring, persistent or suddenly worse, or if you suspect an allergic reaction, talk to a dermatologist or doctor.

The bottom line

Cocoa butter has a documented case against it. Shea butter has a popular reputation that is hard to trace to a primary source. Treat cocoa butter as a flag, treat shea butter as unproven either way, and let your own skin decide.

This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not dermatological diagnosis, medical treatment, or clinical advice. Talk to a licensed dermatologist about medical concerns.

Related reading: Comedogenic Ingredients List | Is Coconut Oil Comedogenic? | Is Isopropyl Myristate Comedogenic? | How to Read an Ingredient List for Acne-Prone Skin

References

1. Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.
2. Comedogenicity in rabbit: some cosmetic ingredients/vehicles. Cutan Ocul Toxicol. 2007.
3. Comedogenicity in cosmeceuticals: a review of clinical relevance, regulatory gaps, and future directions. JAAD Reviews. 2025.
4. Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54(3):507-512. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058
5. ScienceInsights. Is shea butter comedogenic? What dermatologists say. scienceinsights.org/is-shea-butter-comedogenic-what-dermatologists-say/
6. Baraka Impact. Does shea butter clog pores? Comedogenic rating guide. barakasheabutter.com/blogs/baraka-blogs/does-shea-butter-clog-pores
7. DermApproved. Shea butter. dermapproved.com/ingredients/shea-butter/