Is Squalane Comedogenic? Squalane vs Squalene: What the Research Shows

Probably not. Fulton's 1989 rabbit-ear survey graded squalane 1, which he read as not significant, and squalane is a saturated form of squalene that does not auto-oxidize [1][3]. Squalene itself was scarcely comedogenic in rabbit ears, but its peroxides were highly comedogenic [4][5]. The sources reviewed include no human trial of squalane as a comedogen.

Key takeaways

1. Squalane graded 1 in Fulton's table, and he considered grades of 0 to 1 not significant [1].
2. Squalane is the hydrogenated, fully saturated derivative of squalene. Squalene is a natural component of human sebum [2][3].
3. In rabbit ears, squalene was scarcely comedogenic by itself, but squalene peroxides were highly comedogenic [4].
4. Squalene monohydroperoxide produced a comedogenic reaction higher than that of well-known comedogenic cosmetic ingredients [5].
5. A 1982 safety review concluded that squalane and squalene are safe as cosmetic ingredients in present practices of use. Safe is not the same as non-comedogenic [2].

Squalane, squalene and squalene peroxides: three different substances

The names look alike, and the research treats them very differently.

What did the studies find?

1. Fulton 1989. Squalane sits among the lowest-graded oils in the table, at 1. Fulton read grades of 0 to 1 as not significant [1].
2. Motoyoshi 1983. The study compared UV-irradiated and non-irradiated squalene, oleic acid, tetradecane, isopropyl myristate, squalane and liquid paraffin in rabbit ears. It found that squalene itself was scarcely comedogenic, squalene peroxides were highly comedogenic, and the size of comedones correlated with lipid peroxide levels for oleic acid [4]. The author proposed that squalene and free fatty acids in sebum may be less comedogenic than their peroxides [4].
3. Chiba and colleagues 2000. Squalene monohydroperoxide was a potent comedogenic compound in rabbit ear skin, while squalene itself and its reduced form, squalene hydroxide, were less comedogenic [5].
4. Cosmetic Ingredient Review 1982. Squalane and squalene were nonirritants to rabbit skin and eye at 100% concentration, and the panel concluded both are safe as cosmetic ingredients in present practices of use [2].

Why does the difference matter on a label?

The peroxide concern applies to unsaturated squalene, which can oxidize. Squalane is fully saturated, so it is not subject to auto-oxidation [3]. That is a chemical argument, not a human trial, and the rabbit-ear work tested squalene peroxides, not squalane peroxides.

Squalane can be made from olive oil residues or from sugarcane-derived farnesene [3]. The studies reviewed do not compare sources, so a 'plant-derived' label tells you about origin, not comedogenicity.

What does the evidence not show?

1. Human data. The sources reviewed include no human comedogenicity trial of squalane.
2. Squalane's own result in the 1983 study. The summary reports on squalene and its peroxides but does not break out squalane [4].
3. Real products. The studies tested pure compounds on rabbit ears. A 2006 study found that finished products using comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic [6].
4. A safe amount. Fulton tested ingredients at 10% in propylene glycol and was not convinced lower concentrations are safe [1].
5. Squalene in products. Nothing reviewed measures peroxide levels in cosmetics containing squalene.

What can you do about it?

1. Check the exact spelling. Paste an ingredient list into the Klenzera scanner to see whether a product contains Squalane or Squalene. See How to Read an Ingredient List for Acne-Prone Skin for similar naming traps.
2. Weigh position. See Does Ingredient Order Matter?.
3. Test one product at a time. Use the steps in How to Know If a Product Will Clog Your Pores.

Frequently asked questions

Is squalane comedogenic?

It graded 1 in Fulton's rabbit-ear table, which he considered not significant [1]. No human trial turned up in the sources reviewed.

Is squalene comedogenic?

By itself, scarcely, in rabbit ears. Its peroxides were highly comedogenic [4].

Is squalane the same as squalene?

No. Squalane is the saturated, hydrogenated derivative, and squalene is unsaturated [3].

Is olive squalane different?

It describes the source, not the chemistry. The studies reviewed do not compare sources [3].

When should I see a dermatologist?

If breakouts are painful, cystic, scarring, persistent or suddenly worse, or if you suspect an allergic reaction, talk to a dermatologist or doctor.

The bottom line

Squalane has one of the more reassuring entries in the literature, but it rests on rabbit data and chemistry, not on a human trial. Check the spelling on the label, because squalene is a different story, and let your own skin decide.

This article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not dermatological diagnosis, medical treatment, or clinical advice. Talk to a licensed dermatologist about medical concerns.

Related reading: Comedogenic Ingredients List | Is Coconut Oil Comedogenic? | Is Dimethicone Comedogenic? | Are Comedogenic Ratings Reliable?

References

1. Fulton JE Jr. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1989;40:321-333.
2. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of squalane and squalene. J Am Coll Toxicol. 1982;1(2):37-56.
3. Squalane. Wikipedia. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squalane
4. Motoyoshi K. Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides. Br J Dermatol. 1983;109(2):191-198. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.1983.tb07080.x
5. Chiba K, Yoshizawa K, Makino I, Kawakami K, Onoue M. Comedogenicity of squalene monohydroperoxide in the skin after topical application. J Toxicol Sci. 2000;25:77-83.
6. Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2006;54(3):507-512. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058