Short answer: The least pore-clogging face oils in the original research are sunflower and safflower oil (both graded 0 out of 5), followed by castor oil (1) and jojoba (0 to 2, depending on the supplier). Olive, almond and apricot kernel oil sit in the borderline range (2), while avocado, soybean and sesame oil scored 3, and cocoa and coconut butter scored 4.
Those grades come from one table: James Fulton's 1989 survey in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the source most "comedogenic oils" charts copy, often with errors. We went back to the paper itself, so every number below matches the original.
Key takeaways
- Fulton graded 0 to 1 as not significant, 2 to 3 as borderline and 4 to 5 as positive.
- Refined versions of several oils scored lower than crude ones, so the same oil can rate differently by source.
- Argan, rosehip, grapeseed, hemp seed and marula oil were never graded in the 1989 table. Charts that give them a number are using later, less transparent sources.
- Oils high in linoleic acid have the best early evidence for acne-prone skin.
The Face Oil Table: Grades From Fulton 1989
| Oil | INCI name to look for | Grade (0 to 5) | Refined grade, where tested |
| Sunflower oil | Helianthus annuus seed oil | 0 | |
| Safflower oil | Carthamus tinctorius seed oil | 0 | |
| Castor oil | Ricinus communis seed oil | 1 | |
| Hydrogenated castor oil | Hydrogenated castor oil | 1 | |
| Babassu oil | Orbignya oleifera seed oil | 1 | |
| Squalane | Squalane | 1 | |
| Jojoba oil | Simmondsia chinensis seed oil | 0 to 2 (varies by source) | |
| Mineral oil | Paraffinum liquidum | 0 to 2 (varies by source) | |
| Olive oil | Olea europaea fruit oil | 2 | 1 |
| Sweet almond oil | Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil | 2 | 1 |
| Apricot kernel oil | Prunus armeniaca kernel oil | 2 | 1 |
| Peanut oil | Arachis hypogaea oil | 2 | |
| Avocado oil | Persea gratissima oil | 3 | 2 |
| Sesame oil | Sesamum indicum seed oil | 3 | 1 |
| Evening primrose oil | Oenothera biennis oil | 3 | |
| Soybean oil | Glycine soja oil | 3 | |
| Corn oil | Zea mays germ oil | 3 | |
| Cotton seed oil | Gossypium herbaceum seed oil | 3 | |
| Hydrogenated vegetable oil | Hydrogenated vegetable oil | 3 | |
| Cocoa butter | Theobroma cacao seed butter | 4 | |
| Coconut butter | Cocos nucifera oil | 4 |
Source: Fulton JE, Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products, J Soc Cosmet Chem 40:321-333, 1989, Table I, section VI. INCI names added by Klenzera.
Fulton's own conclusion was practical: refining improved sesame, avocado and mink oil, but it was simpler to use safflower and sunflower oil, which are naturally less comedogenic.
Your oil is probably inside a blend. Face oils, balms and moisturizers often list three or four plant oils together. Scan the product to see every oil it contains and its grade, in label order.
Why Sunflower And Safflower Score Lowest: The Linoleic Acid Clue
The oils with the lowest grades are rich in linoleic acid, an omega-6 fatty acid, while many higher-graded oils lean toward oleic acid. That pattern lines up with clinical evidence.
In a double-blind, placebo-controlled crossover study of people with mild acne, topical linoleic acid shrank microcomedones (the earliest, invisible stage of a clogged pore) by almost 25% in one month, with no change at placebo sites (Letawe et al., Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 1998). It is one small study, so treat it as promising, not settled.
Oxidation matters too. A rabbit-ear study found that oleic acid and its peroxides both formed large comedones, and comedone size tracked peroxide levels (British Journal of Dermatology, 1983). Old or heat-damaged oils may behave worse than fresh ones.
The Popular Oils People Ask About
Is jojoba oil comedogenic? Usually not. Fulton graded it 0 to 2 and noted some commercial preparations were more comedogenic than others, likely from contaminants. Note that sulfated jojoba oil graded 3.
Is castor oil comedogenic? Castor oil graded 1, which Fulton treated as not significant. PEG-40 castor oil, a common emulsifier, graded 0.
Is olive oil comedogenic? Borderline. Crude olive oil graded 2 and refined olive oil graded 1.
Is avocado oil comedogenic? Avocado oil graded 3, dropping to 2 when refined. It is a richer oil better suited to dry skin than to breakout-prone areas.
Is argan oil comedogenic? Argan oil does not appear in the 1989 table. Ratings you see online for argan, rosehip, grapeseed, hemp and marula come from later lists that rarely show their method, so we mark them as "not graded in the primary study" until a citable source exists.
Why A Low Grade Is Not A Guarantee
Grades rate a single ingredient at 10% in a sensitive animal model, not your finished product on your face. Kligman and Mills found most vegetable oils were only mildly comedogenic and lost that activity when diluted to 25% in mineral oil (as summarized in J Soc Cosmet Chem, 1983). Draelos and DiNardo later showed finished products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic (JAAD, 2006).
Use the table to rank options and to spot a high-graded oil near the top of a label. Then judge by how your skin responds over 4 to 6 weeks.
How To Choose A Face Oil If You Are Acne-Prone
- Start with a 0 or 1 oil such as sunflower, safflower or squalane.
- Buy refined or high-linoleic versions where the label says so.
- Check the full list, not the front label. "Jojoba oil" on the front can sit beside coconut oil inside.
- Store it cool and dark and replace it if it smells off.
- Patch-test on one area for two weeks before using it on your whole face.
FAQs
What is the most non-comedogenic oil?
In Fulton's data, sunflower and safflower oil, both graded 0.
Is coconut oil non-comedogenic?
No. Coconut butter graded 4. Read our full post on coconut oil.
Is mineral oil comedogenic?
It graded 0 to 2 depending on the source. Cosmetic-grade mineral oil is generally at the low end. See our post on mineral oil and petrolatum.
Medical disclaimer: this article is educational and does not replace advice from a licensed dermatologist.
Related reading: Is Coconut Oil Comedogenic? · Is Squalane Comedogenic? · Are Mineral Oil and Petrolatum Comedogenic? · Are Shea Butter and Cocoa Butter Comedogenic?